Golf: for people who don’t know how to surf.
Today I had my typical surf trip to Florence. I threw my wetsuit and longboard in the back of the Yukon and took off to the beach. It’s about an hours drive, which gives me time to reflect, collect my thoughts, and crank the radio to my favorite tunes!The closer I get to the beach, the more excited I get and the faster I drive. As soon as I get to the parking lot I quickly jump out slide on my wetsuit, wax up my board, and speed walk/ jog down to the beach. Once I get down to the water I calm down. My pulse drops and I’m back at my happy place. The Pacific Ocean. I usually surf for an hour then trudge back to the truck, tired, sandy, salty, and as happy and peaceful as I can be as a human being! Then after lazily slipping off my wetsuit, packing my board away I meander home with a satisfied grin. It’s been a great day!
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